Remove the end caps (Lift the back and pull them towards you)
Remove the two screws at the corners of the console
Slide the console forward (towards you) and flip it upwards, exposing the three cabinet screws beneath it.
Opening the Cabinet
Remove the three screws. Slide cabinet top forward and lift
The spring catches on the kickplate can be a bit tricky to remove. It helps to know that the catches are mounted on the kickplate and not on the front panel; to disengage the clip, you push down on it with a putty knife.
To remove the front panel, remove the screws holding the hinges to the door. Then tilt door up and pull to remove.
Remove door switch screws, ground wire screws, and all screws holding front panel to front bulkhead
Once you get the cabinet front panel off, reach under the drum to the back of the drive motor and remove the belt from the motor pinion to release belt tension. The front bulkhead and drum can then be easily removed.
The four drum support rollers will now be easily accessible. One or two may be worn more than the others, but replace them all. When replacing, use only ONE drop of oil on the hub. Oil tends to attract dust and lint, and over-oiling them can actually shorten the life of them.
While you have the dryer dismantled, vacuum out all the dust you can. Also, it’s a good idea to replace the belt and belt tensioner whenever you have the dryer dismantled to this point. It is cheap insurance against future problems.
Inspect the front and rear drum seals (attached to the front and back of the dryer drum).
If they are badly worn, replace them. Your parts dealer will have a seal kit, and it is actually quite inexpensive and easy to glue a new one in place.